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Head Vet Shaun Veterinary - Shaun

Rehoming Manager - Mel Rehoming - Mel

Ann O'Brien - Head of rehabilitation Rehabilitation - Ann

 

Questions and Answers

Have you ever wondered, "why does my dog or cat do that?" Our panel of experts answer some of the most common questions about cats and dogs.

Shaun says...
"Remember, if you are really worried about your pet, take him to the vet. There can be medical reasons behind some behaviour issues, so it's best to get the vet to check."

Regular vaccinations
When I got my cat from Battersea, you advised me to get her vaccinated regularily. As my cat hardly ever goes out, is this really necessary?

Shaun says:
It is always advisable to keep your cat's vaccinations up to date, as she only needs to come in contact with another cat once to be exposed to a variety of nasty infectious diseases. Some of these viruses can survive for short periods in the environment, so you could bring them in on your clothes and shoes, and expose the cat to them even if she never goes out.

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House-training
I am experiencing some difficulty in house-training my cat. I have checked with my vet already and there is no medical reason for her urinating in the house.

Mel says:
If your cat is urinating throughout the house she may be feeling quite stressed and anxious and may sense some kind of danger or threat. If you have a cat flap you could try blocking it up, as a strange cat may have come into her territory.

Always clean the areas where your cat has urinated using a biological cleaning powder diluted with water. You could also use a granulated treatment called 'odour zorb', which helps to soak up the ammonia in the urine. Try putting small bowls of dry food (glued to the bottom of the bowl to prevent the cat eating it) at favourite spraying sites to prevent further urination. The idea of using these treatments is to remove the smell from the area that is attracting your cat back. You can use various things to distract your cat from going back to the area, such as placing tin foil, upturned cardboard boxes or furniture on the used areas. Closing the door to deny your cat access to the area is one of the most effective.

Urinating can be triggered by a number of causes and can be quite a complex situation, so it is best to seek veterinary and behavioural advice for your cat's problem.

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Come back!
I am having problems when exercising my dog, he just will not come back to me. What can I do?

Ann says:
It is very important to have as much control as possible over your dog, especially when outside. You always need to have your eyes and ears open as you never know what you are going to come across. By keeping your dog under control you will ensure he doesn't come up against things that could be a threat to him, or be a problem to other people or animals.

There are many reasons why dogs will not come back to their owners when called. Some owners will tell their dogs off when they eventually come back, so the dog won't want to come back for fear of being punished. Other dogs just have great fun chasing squirrels and playing with other dogs so they do not want the fun to end.

For some basic tips on recall training, visit our basic training section. Then, when you are confident that your dog has learnt recall, go to the park and let your dog off in a controlled environment. You could possibly go out with another dog owner who has a good recall. Recall both dogs and reward the one who comes back first. Remember keep training fun!

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Older dog
I have just taken on an older dog. Is there any advice you can give me?

Shaun says:
Firstly, you should take into account that a lot of older dogs would have been with one owner until being re-homed, so adjusting to a new home with new people will take time. Pacing and panting are often signs of an unsettled older dog, though these behaviours should pass with time. Let your older dog settle in gradually and do not expect too much to soon.

Knowing how much exercise to give him will vary depending on how active he is for his age. Therefore it is best that you take him on several short walks a day rather than one or two long ones to avoid risk of injury. Remember that lack of exercise in older dogs can often lead to obesity.

When taking on an elderly dog you should be aware that with old age comes intolerance and always consider whether or not he will tolerate a younger playmate. With regards to cats, you should not be fooled by the dear old dog that plods along as they may still have the capability to chase and harass any cat.

A standard diet is unlikely to suit every older dog. Many of the conditions of old age can be treated, or at least be controlled by correct diet. When you have taken on an older dog, make an appointment with your vet and discuss the best diet for him.

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Pulling on the lead
My dog will not stop pulling on the lead. Can you give me some advice?

Ann says:
All dogs have a need to investigate their surroundings and this instinct is restrained when a dog is placed on a lead. Your dog will quickly learn that pulling will allow him to sniff walls and lamp posts and when your dog becomes an adult and is stronger, he could pull so hard that you will find it impossible to control him. It is highly advisable that you lead train your dog from an early age when he is not so strong and the behaviour can be controlled.
There are a number of devices to help stop your dog from pulling such as gentle leaders, halties and body harnesses. They all help to take the pressure away from your dog's throat when he pulls. We suggest you ask for advice from a dog trainer when using these devices.
The real cure for this problem is to give your dog a reason to want to walk beside you instead of pulling. For some tips on walk to heel training, visit our basic training section.

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Car traveller
My dog is a terrible car traveller and it has got to the stage where he even refuses to get in. Is there anything I can do?

Mel says:
Most people will need to transport their dog in a car at sometime but it can be quite a stressful event for their canine passenger with responses ranging from refusing to get in the car, to barking and whining or panting and pacing. Owners often respond with strong verbal or physical reprimands which can make the problem worse and even giving kind words and soothing strokes will increase the problem. The cure for this problem is to change your dogs perception of the car from negative to positive.
Get your dog used to walking around the outside of the car and reward him with a treat or toy if he is relaxed. Keep doing this until you can walk close to the car quite comfortably and break it up by playing games with him.
Open one of the car doors, walk around your car and throw the treat or toy for him. Slowly build up the distance of the throw until he has to go right inside the car to get it. Gradually close the door when he is inside and eventually switch the engine on. Increase the time that he is inside the car and always remember to reward him. You can now begin to drive slowly for short distances and build up the distances over time.
If car sickness is a problem your dog, it could be from a lack of vitamin B6. Try giving your dog extra B vitamins on the morning of the journey or some raw liver. Some dogs travel better on empty stomachs and some on full, you will need to find out what suits your dog best.

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Scratching furniture
My cat is constantly scratching my furniture. Is there anything that I can do?

Shaun says:
When your cat scratches your furniture she is not sharpening her claws she is actually conditioning them and helping to shake off any dead nail. Another reason why cats scratch the furniture is a form of visual marking so that other cats can see who has been there last and therefore the claw marks are always strategically positioned in highly visible locations.
You should make sure that your cat has access to scratching posts or a bark covered log and make them tall enough for her to stretch full length. One post should be placed near to her resting area.
You do not need to change a scratching post when it is old and tattered as shredding indicates frequent use and this is what you want.
When you buy your first scratching post, place it in front of previously marked areas and persuade your cat to use it by covering it in catnip, toys or food. You could also put an occasional treat on some of the platforms to encourage use.
It is also important to deter your cat from scratching other sites. To do this you can apply foil or plastic wrap around target areas. For difficult to wrap locations it is advisable that you spray the areas with citrus-scented sprays.
Until your cat can be trusted not to scratch furniture, she should not be given free run of your house when you cannot supervise.

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